Sebastian Van Alder

The Van Alder Guide

Where One Goes

A short list of places in New York that my family still approves of. It is short on purpose. Go on a weekday.

S. V. A.

An old New York guidebook and a street map on a desk, with tortoiseshell glasses and a fountain pen

Nine places

No. 01

Bar · Upper East Side

Bemelmans Bar

“Sit under the murals. Order something your grandfather would recognize.”

The Carlyle, 35 East 76th Street. Murals by Ludwig Bemelmans, 1947.

No. 02

Museum · Upper East Side

The Frick Collection

“The only museum on Fifth Avenue that still feels like a house.”

1 East 70th Street. Open to the public since 1935.

No. 03

Library · Murray Hill

The Morgan Library

“Mr. Morgan’s study. Look at the ceiling, then leave quietly.”

225 Madison Avenue. Library completed in 1906.

No. 04

Steakhouse · Herald Square

Keens

“Clay pipes on the ceiling, mutton chop on the plate.”

72 West 36th Street. Since 1885.

No. 05

Bar · Midtown

King Cole Bar

“Order the Red Snapper. The hotel introduced the Bloody Mary under that name in 1934.”

The St. Regis, 2 East 55th Street. Maxfield Parrish mural since 1932.

No. 06

Books · Midtown East

Argosy Book Store

“Six floors of other people’s libraries. Take the stairs slowly.”

116 East 59th Street. Since 1925.

No. 07

Hats · NoMad

J.J. Hat Center

“A man without a hat in winter is making a statement. Usually a poor one.”

310 Fifth Avenue. Since 1911.

No. 08

Café · Upper East Side

Café Sabarsky

“Viennese coffee and Viennese cake. Nobody raises their voice.”

Neue Galerie, 1048 Fifth Avenue. Since 2001.

No. 09

Garden · Central Park

Conservatory Garden

“Central Park’s only formal garden. Nobody runs here.”

Vanderbilt Gate, Fifth Avenue at 105th Street. Since 1937.

Where one does not go

  1. Seagram Building 375 Park Avenue

    Completed in 1958. We do not discuss 1958.

  2. Times Square Midtown

    Urgency, illuminated.

  3. The Vessel Hudson Yards

    A staircase that only leads back down.

  4. Rooftop bars Anywhere

    Particularly the ones with a DJ before sunset.

  5. Brunch Everywhere

    A meal that cannot decide what it is.